Because there aren’t a lot of fictional surf movies made
(and given the quality and authenticity of those films, that’s a good thing), surfers
probably spend more time thinking and talking about the ones that have been
made than they should. Such is the case with last Fall’s
Chasing Mavericks. While it was better than the tin standard, Point
Break (read my review
here), it had its flaws. But most movies do.
As I was already pretty familiar with Jay Moriarity’s story,
I was most intrigued by Frosty Hesson, Jay’s coach and mentor. Here was a guy
who charged Maverick’s and, despite the bravado and life threatening repercussions
associated with surfing this wave, took Jay under his wing and taught him how
to ride it. That’s why when my friend Greg Cochran, President of the Pedro
Point Surf Club, mentioned that Frosty had written a book following the release
of the movie, I put it on my Christmas wish list.
Part autobiography, part Jay biography, and part
coaching/life manual, Making Mavericks
is a fascinating look into the life of an underground surfing legend. From an
early age, Frosty was drawn to water and strove to be proficient in it, first
with swimming, then water polo, then skiing and finally surfing. Frosty prospered
in these sports but had to figure things out primarily on his own. He recognized
that quality coaching was critical to success and growth and dedicated a lot of
his free time to coaching kids, first with Bob Pearson’s surf team, then the
Soquel High School surf team. When Jay approached Frosty, it was with the wish to
be a better surfer. Jay’s request was simple but pure. Frosty admired that and showed
Jay the way. To Jay’s credit, he provided the perseverance and work ethic.
Frosty admired that too. When Jay wanted to be an effective contest surfer, Frosty
helped him achieve that goal too. Again, with a lot of hard work, Jay
accomplished his goal. Then, at only 15, Jay approached Frosty with a real
challenge: teach him to surf Maverick’s.
The book features many takeaways that are bolded for emphasis
to reinforce the lessons Frosty learned through his experiences and imparts on
Jay. Some samples include:
- Have a vision.
- To become a capable,
competent individual, learn from capable, competent individuals.
- Don’t give less than it
is your right for you to give.
- You have to break down
every goal into smaller, achievable steps, and acknowledge accomplishing each
of them.
- When you’re
experimenting and trying to learn, you’re going to fall – when you stop
falling, you start stagnating.
- It’s easy to make a
good athlete. It’s very hard to make a good human being.
- To be successful, you
cannot let yourself be tainted by other people’s fears.
Having grown up in the Bay Area, it was a treat reading
about Frosty’s upbringing. He was raised in Hayward and lived in Lake Tahoe and
Santa Cruz. His surfing exploits took him to the North Shore of Oahu, the East
and West sides of Santa Cruz and, of course, Maverick’s. You’d have to be
living under a rock not to know that Maverick’s is a special place and the
surfers who charge it are special people. I especially enjoyed Frosty’s
retelling of his first paddle-out at Maverick’s in October of 1998:
I
saw Jeff [Clark] start to paddle and he was paddling harder and faster than
anyone I’d ever seen. As he started his paddling, the bottom of the wave slope
had not touched him yet. A few seconds later, the bottom of the slope touched
him, and he went backward. He kept paddling at this furious pace, so intent and
so focused, and I could not fathom how he went backward up the face of a wave.
My heart started to pounding in a rush of excitement and fear—this was
obviously a totally legit huge wave and it as where I lived! The whole world
had suddenly changed. At the same time, I had to focus and put aside my
emotions. It didn’t matter how awesome it was to have these waves in my
backyard if I couldn’t ride them. So rather than get caught up in the thrill of
the discovery, I started watching and turned it into an analytical process. There
was only on question on my mind: how do I ride this wave?
Ultimately, Making
Mavericks is much more than a book about a guy teaching a hyper-focused kid
how to surf big waves. Instead, it’s a retrospective of a man preparing a boy
for manhood while at the same time learning what manhood is all about. Frosty
doesn’t pretend to have all the answers. When he was a kid he was just like Jay
– an energetic kid thirsty for knowledge. But unlike Jay, Frosty had to figure
things out on his own. Frosty sees Jay’s passion for learning and
setting/meeting goals but knows kids can’t lean life’s lessons all on their own.
He takes Jay under his wing and the rest is history. Frosty clearly has a soft
spot for Jay and Jay clearly reveres Frosty. We get a glimpse into that
symbiotic relationship and this element of the story really shines in the book.
In all, I found Making
Mavericks a great book for two reasons: it provided me with a glimpse of
the special relationship Frosty had with Jay and it provided many important lessons
Frosty acquired through life that I can apply to my own life, to make me a
better person. I highly recommend this book.
Until then, may your waves be head high and glassy.
Regardless, this dead horse beating is meant to demonstrate that I had a roller coaster of a weekend. On the one hand, I finished shaping my first surfboard. It took years, yes years, to shape. Afraid of messing up, quick to put it aside to focus on easier things, not having the right tools and a whole bunch of other excuses all made it easy to put off. Well, I finally got tired of looking at yet another project I'd started and not finished. I also realized I'd never get any good at shaping if I didn't actually shape. So I did it. Once I glass it (hopefully this part won't take 2-3 more years), I'll be really anxious to take it out and see how it works. My expectations are low but, it's a big accomplishment just the same. As a result, I got a lot of kudos and back slaps from friends and family on Saturday. Most importantly, I can now say that I am a shaper. Not a dreamer. Not a wannabe shaper. A shaper. Safe to say, I was pretty proud of myself.
