1. Having discovered surfing; I can’t imagine a life where I’d be excited to play golf or video games
2. Being fit (enough) to surf in my 40s
3. Living in an era and country that enables me to have free time to do something as frivolous as surf
4. Having a family that understands what surfing means to me and what it does for my peace of mind and demeanor; I’m a lot more pleasant to be around if I’ve gotten some surf
5. Joel Tudor, Dave Parmenter, Greg Long, Bruce Brown and Kelly Slater
6. Point surf
7. Wetsuits
8. Living in California and close (enough) to the beach
9. Being able to surf in (generally) clean water
10. Statistics that tell me how unlikely it is that I’ll be attacked by a shark
Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving. Until next time, may your waves be head high and glassy.