Giving Thanks

As the Thanksgiving holiday winds down, it got me thinking tonight about giving thanks and being grateful.  As much as I complain about not having enough time to surf – I even got skunked earlier today – I’m seriously so fortunate that I don’t have any real problems.  After all, I have my health, I have a roof over my head, I live in a safe neighborhood, I have a loving family and I could go on and on and on.  It’s amazing that so many of us have these basic necessities yet we find all sorts of crap to complain about.  So, I thought I’d make a list of all the things I’m grateful for as they relate to surfing.  In no particular order, I’m so very grateful for:

1.       Having discovered surfing; I can’t imagine a life where I’d be excited to play golf or video games

2.       Being fit (enough) to surf in my 40s

3.       Living in an era and country that enables me to have free time to do something as frivolous as surf

4.       Having a family that understands what surfing means to me and what it does for my peace of mind and demeanor; I’m a lot more pleasant to be around if I’ve gotten some surf

5.       Joel Tudor, Dave Parmenter, Greg Long, Bruce Brown and Kelly Slater

6.       Point surf

7.       Wetsuits

8.       Living in California and close (enough) to the beach

9.       Being able to surf in (generally) clean water

10.   Statistics that tell me how unlikely it is that I’ll be attacked by a shark

Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving.  Until next time, may your waves be head high and glassy.