This is Surfing, Old School Style

If reading's your bag, you probably have visited a used book store or two in your time. Well, in my limited experience, it doesn't get much better than Hein & Company in Jackson, CA. Two floors jammed packed with thousands upon thousands of books on every topic imaginable tucked into every nook and cranny. In brief: sensory overload for book lovers and knowledge seekers.

While visiting my mother-in-law over the holidays, I stopped into this eclectic shop in hopes of finding a good read to curl up with while I digested 2 metric tons of food and drink. Given Jackson is a few hundred miles away from the coast, I was curious to see whether the store had any books on surfing. Surprisingly, there were two. The first one was Daniel Duane's well known book Caught Inside. The other book was considerably older and, no disrespect to Daniel Duane, more unique. Decision made.

Originally published in 1960, Surf-Riding: Its Thrills and Techniques, by O.B. Patterson, is a step back in time. Any images you may have of 1960s longboarding is probably tied to Bruce Brown films like The Endless Summer or the current stylemasters who give a nod to this era - cats like Joel Tudor and Kassia Meador. But this kind of longboard surfing is light years ahead of the images captured in this book. No tube rides, stalls, head dips or nose rides. Just trimming and riding in the curl. Post-war surfing was clearly a simpler time as it predates the emergence of scammers trying to get rich off the sport/lifestyle. Thus, Surf-Riding is a nostalgic read.

That said, the book is hopelessly and helplessly hokey. Patterson begins his ode to the Sport of Kings with step-by-step instructions for paddling a surfboard, catching a wave, popping up and, of course, riding a wave. While his intention is sincere, anyone who has ever tried surfing will agree that a "how to" manual doesn't remotely prepare you for the real thing. Surfing is not like baking a cake. 

Today this is just called a kook wiping out.

He then cajoles anyone who's still hesitant to give surfing a try:

Join us in this thrilling sport:

     When the sea is raising hell

     with breakers crashing high

     We will cheer for those brave lads

     who dared join us and try!

His discussion of surfing in Northern California is also comical:

For daring action and sheer foolhardiness we doubt if there is anything in the world that will compare to a bunch of wave-happy Northern California surfers in the act of riding the 'big ones' that roll in their rugged coast. In addition to shattering waves, they must brave bone-chilling water most of the year.

Unless you have tried the ocean water in Northern California, all this [neoprene] gear may sound strange, but, Brother - just take a dip for yourself and you will understand their problem!

Wetsuits have evolved ever so slightly since the '50s,
as has photoshopping

There are also several notable surfers mentioned in the book whose names are badly mis-spelled. Given their stature in surfing, you'd think this was avoidable. For example:

Dale Velsy (Velzy)

Mickey Minose (Muñoz)

Ricky Gregg (Grigg)

Jose Angle (Angel)

All that said, the book's naivete or high kook factor can be forgiven as it merely reflects the author's love of surfing. He is comprehensive in his overview, addressing all things surfing: design, construction, surfing in Hawaii vs. the mainland & other countries, and finally surfing in legend and history. This guy is clearly stoked on surfing. But let their be no mistake: Patterson didn't just talk the talk, admiring surfing from the beach. His career was primarily in PR but he was a proud member of the Outrigger Canoe Club and surfed for years along Oahu's South Shore and the California coast with his son Richard "Dick" Patterson.

O.B. "Pat" Patterson -
THIS guy is stoked on surfing!

Pat's alter ego: surf bum

Clearly, Surf-Riding is a period piece, a step back in time. Lord only knows what Patterson would think of today's surfing, characterized by giant waves and big airs. What hasn't changed is the stoke surfers have for surfing. You heard it here first, ladies and gents: stoke is timeless. You can take that to the bank.

Apparently dropping in is a timeless practice. Hope these guys are friends....

Who wouldn't want to be here?

Until next time, may your waves be head high and glassy.

What I've Learned From Watching The 2014 Mavericks Invitational

While still in progress, today's Mavericks Invitational so far has been epic. Conditions have varied but the waves have been monstrous. The quality of the waves and the skill level of the surfers riding them have done wonders for surfing. Here's what I've taken away from this event so far:

1. It's cliche but these surfers are truly men who ride mountains. Unassuming on land, total gladiators in the some of the scariest waves in the world.

No justification. Just shameful.

2. With the ASP's Dream Tour and the Big Wave World Tour (of which the Mavericks Invitational is a part), competitive surfing is at a pinnacle. Good riddance to the days of contests held in 2-3' slop. Who remembers the 1985 pro contest held in a wave pool in Allentown, PA?!

3. I don't know what's more impressive: these surfer's physical conditioning or their mental conditioning. I'm assuming that hucking yourself over a 40' ledge takes plenty of both. And I'd imagine surviving the beatings these guys have taken in waves this size takes even more of both. PWCs and CO2 cartridges are nice but getting rag dolled under a giant wave is a lonely place to be.

4. The circus of boats, PWCs, helicopters, groupies, cameras and prize money don't detract from the fact that, at its core, this is about some really brave men surfing some really big waves. I get a feeling that all that bullshit gets stripped away when the competitors are sitting alone / together in the peak, waiting for that next giant set to loom down on them from the horizon.

5. Surfing giant waves isn't about big balls, it's about commitment. These guys have accepted the fact that they will be absentee fathers, husbands and friends; they will hover just above or below the poverty line; they will make decisions and live their lives that virtually no one else will understand. Dropping everything to fly half way around the world at a moments notice but needing to drag boards through airports and customs, deal with connecting flights, layovers, time changes, rental cars and finding a place to stay, all in hopes that the forecast materializes. It's not a glorious lifestyle.

The finals have begun and I don't imagine the final result will change my perspective. These competitors and this wave have my utmost respect and I'm grateful to have the opportunity to watch them do something truly incredible.

Zach Wormhoudt, Mavericks 2011

Until next time, may your waves be head high and glassy.

The Song Remains the Same

Wow, it's been a long time since I last posted. Let's see if I can remember how this works. Push this button, pull this lever, add water here, okay, I think we're good to go.

Happy New Year faithful readers. And Happy New Year as well to all of you who stumbled upon this blog by accident. What's happened since my last posting in late October? Here's a quick summary:

• Maya is surfing once again after breaking her leg in huge waves in Europe (see previous post)
  
• There are huge waves in Europe.
  
• Mick Fanning beat Kelly Slater to take the 2013 ASP crown following some questionable judging
  
• Haleiwa was a snoozer but Sunset and Pipe delivered big time for an all around exciting Triple Crown
  
• Nat Young, Santa Cruz's very own, was elected ASP Rookie of the Year

And just today it was learned that Gerard Butler, who admirably portrayed Frosty Hesson in Chasing Mavericks (see my review here), has signed on to play Bodhi in the remake of Point Break, which is arguably the worst (surf) movie ever. As I see it, Butler's involvement signals one of two things: 

1) After hanging out with big wave legends like Peter Mel, Grant Washburn and Greg Long, soaking up all of their philosophy and almost drowning at Mavs, he has an appreciation for big wave surfing and wants to right the wrongs, the oh so many wrongs, committed in the first Point Break. 

Or, 2) he's dismissed everything he learned from these big wave chargers, including Frosty himself, blocked out his two wave hold down in the boneyard, and is doing Point Break for the money. Let's hope it's #1.




Either way, this is the benchmark:

And now we're caught up. So let's raise a pint and make a toast to hope for 2014. Hope for good surf, hope for no injuries or drownings, hope for a another ASP crown for the ageless Kelly Slater, and hope I can surf more like Joel Tudor and Taylor Knox.

Until next time, may your waves be head high and glassy.

Maya's Passion

Maya Gabeira's near drowning at Nazare, off the coast of Portugal, on Monday has been well publicized and documented. Certainly, the images of her floating face down in the surf, her tow partner Carlos Burle leaping from his PWC to pull her out of the water, and being administered CPR on shore are together disturbing. She's lucky to have only sustained a broken ankle from this harrowing experience.

Not surprisingly, many others feel the same way. One of my favorite surfing websites, theinertia.com, posted the following question on Twitter yesterday to engage those who saw, heard or otherwise have an opinion on risking one's life to surf giant waves:

<blockquote class="twitter-tweet"><p>We&#39;ve watched Maya Gabeira almost die surfing big waves twice in two years. Should she stop? <a href="http://t.co/EOWuo2YYbh">http://t.co/EOWuo2YYbh</a></p>&mdash; The Inertia (@the_inertia) <a href="https://twitter.com/the_inertia/statuses/395316623671689216">October 29, 2013</a></blockquote>
<script async src="//platform.twitter.com/widgets.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Note: if the tweet didn't embed properly, theinertia.com posed the question: "We've watched Maya Gabeira almost die surfing big waves twice in two years. Should she stop?"

There's no doubt that what Maya, Carlos and many other big wave chargers do is dangerous. Quite frankly, it's a miracle not more people have died trying. But by directly or indirectly questioning her decision to continue pursuing her dream is ludicrous. It isn't up to theinertia.com or any of its readers to decide whether Maya should stop chasing big waves. This more than a job. This is her passion; it's how she defines herself. Yes, it's dangerous. Yes, people have died and she's come close twice now. I'm sure she's fully aware of the risks and consequences of her decisions. And I'm pretty sure she battles fear when she's out there, particularly when she lets go of the rope and commits to outrunning an avalanche of water.

I'm going to guess that she would prefer NOT to die while surfing giant waves so I think it's fair to assume she'll do everything she can to prepare herself for these life threatening conditions. This requires year round physical and mental training. Weights, cardio and breathing training. Nutrition, sports psychology and scenario planning. PWC driving, First Aid, swell forecasting. All these and more I suspect are a part of her weekly routine. Her sponsors, friends and fellow chargers provide the necessary support to enable this preparation and the pursuit of her dream. Unfortunately, her near drownings are a part of the experience. Any less preparation and we'd be likely mourning the loss of another big wave surfer.

We should be envious and not judgmental of her dedication to this dangerous sport and her decision to pursue it with a 100% commitment.

Until next time, may your waves be head high and glassy.

Ode to Fall

Welcome back Fall, or Autumn as the more sophisticated (but less passionate) know you.

In the depths of winter, we pine away for Spring and Summer, for sun and warmth

But they bring crowds and small waves. And with them disillusion and disappointment.

It's Fall that's really the best.
You're like the girl next door, Fall,
The one we overlook, too busy ogling at the popular girl.

But Summer, she's overrated, Fall is not.
Those in the know give her a wink and a nod, calling her "Indian Summer;"

The slipper fits so wear it with pride, Fall.

Every year she brings warm weather, smaller crowds and offshore winds

Together they remind us:
Hey, I live here and this place is pretty special this time of year.

Soon there will be pumpkins, turkeys and Christmas trees, and all are welcome 

But right now there are no distractions. 

Just beautiful weather and a feeling of serenity. Of harmony. Of here and nowness.

Thank you Fall. 

For bringing groundswells, beautifully groomed waves 

And a reminder how great it is to be alive. 

I ain’t no poet and now you know it. Until next time, may your waves be head high and glassy.

More Duct Tape

In early June a video was posted on Yahoo, as well as many other sites I'm sure, of a surfer in Australia surfing with his friend's mom, a paraplegic, duct-taped to his back. As it should have, the video and accompanying story went viral. I too was moved by this tale of love and trust and wrote about it on this blog (to read my entry and learn the back-story and see the original video, click here). Korduroy.tv did a nice feature too.

More recently, the physical and emotional bond between these two surfers was showcased using GoPro's kick ass products and technology. As with many GoPro user videos, viewers get an up close and very personal look into the fun people are having out there. Our dynamic duo in Oz are no exception as you'll see in this video.

Once again, this story and image captures the true essence of surfing: communing with nature and sharing the thrill with a friend.

Until next time, may your waves be head high and glassy.

North Shore Revisited

While trolling for covers of the Sandals' Endless Summer theme last night on YouTube, I stumbled upon a posting of the film "North Shore" in its entirety. So marked the beginning of the remainder of my evening. Filmed in 1987, "North Shore" is a cult classic among surfers.

For the uninitiated, this guilty pleasure tells the story of Rick Kane, a surfer from land-locked Arizona, who takes his 2 foot wave pool prowess to the North Shore of Hawaii, home to big waves and big egos. He struggles with the decidedly more potent surf, the push and pull between surfing for fun and love vs. fame and fortune and finally, with the Hawaiians' disdain for haoles (mainlanders). Of course, the movie wouldn't be complete without a local girl who captures Rick's eye and is forced to choose between a predictable life in the islands and the a new life with Rick on the mainland.

No Oscar nods here as the movie is very formulaic and the acting is sub par at best. And the vintage 80s electronica music is God awful. Yet, surfers love this movie. But why? Why this one and not other surfing films? Surfers quote this movie with reverence but blast other films like In God's Hands, Point Break, Blue Crush and more recently Chasing Mavericks (although the criticism for this movie is more subdued as it's based on a true story of a legend in the surfing community).

So what's different about "North Shore?" I have my theories. For one, it seems much more legitimate given the involvement of so many 80s surf legends. Shaun Thomson, Derek Ho, Mark Occhilupo, Hans Hedemann, Mark Foo, and of course, Mr. Pipeline himself, Gerry Lopez are all over the film. Gerry in fact served as technical director and both he and Laird Hamilton have prominent roles. Other big names in surfing like Ken Bradshaw, Michael Ho, Robbie Page, Corky Carroll, Lord "Tally Ho" Blears, among many others, have bit parts or make cameos.

Secondly, the film seems to really capture the communal spirit of the North Shore. Surfers from all over the world flock to the Seven Mile Miracle every winter to challenge the big waves at Sunset, Pipe and Waimea. Everybody seems to know everyone and surfing is the common bond. But a big part of that community is the locals. These are the shapers, glassers and sanders who support, and are supported by, surfers. 

The real locals, those with Hawaiian ancestry, are also highlighted. Poverty and localism (read: racism) are evident but not with an overtly social agenda in mind. 

So is respect. Demanded and enforced by the Hui Nalu but also by Turtle and Rick who push back against the age old stereotypes of haoles chasing waves and women while in the Islands. Regardless, the dichotomy between the soul surfers and the glory seekers is prevalent on the North Shore and in the movie version as well.

So the themes are real in that they're an accurate depiction of life in and out of the water in Hawaii. This is most evident in John Philbin's character, Turtle. He's a local who earns a (meager) living sanding boards. He's dialed in and knows what's what. And Philbin (who not surprisingly surfs in real life) plays the part masterfully -- he walks, talks and acts like he's been on the North Shore his whole life. It's Turtle's classic lines, delivered in pidgin, that surfers parrot. With the exception of Big Wednesday, other surfing movies just miss the mark when trying to portray the surfing life. 

The guys who made North Shore really did their homework. So a word of advice to all Hollywood execs planning on making a surfing film: pitch your concept to Turtle. He'll shoot straight from the hip (in pidgin of course) and tell you whether you've got a hit on your hands. But, sadly, he knows you won't listen because as fans of the movie know, "Nobody listens to Turtle."

If you're curious, you can watch the movie here. Enjoy. Until next time, may your waves be head high and glassy.